I first wrote Paula Constant
when I was 21 after reading an article about her
trek
across
the Sahara...
Paula Constant has walked over 12000km through eight countries –
including 7000km through the Sahara with her own camel train.
Her acclaimed books describe the journey, which began
in Trafalgar Square in 2004,
and was ended by civil war in Niger in 2007
I was surprised to not only get a response from Paula but an in depth letter about how to prepare for this kind of journey and an invitation to contact her with more questions.I did.
Anyway I'm not sure why I feel compelled to share this first E-mail. I guess, after rereading it tonight I'm still blown away with anyone who, after accomplishing their goals can take the time for some total stranger and help with her life's goals as well. So anyway, thanks Paula I hope that our conversations are not over and that one day I'll be training my own camels :)
Thu, May 1, 2008 7:39:57 PM
thanks for your email.
Firstly, the thoughts you have regarding no amount of planning being too much,
are entirely accurate, particularly if you are thinking of heading straight into
Africa. I actually did a 5000km practice walk down through Europe first, which
helped me to sort out what I needed to learn before I headed into the Sahara.
The first 3000km I did in the Sahara I actually hired a local tourist operator
to help me plan and learn what I needed to about camels, the desert, and Arabic
culture and custom; whilst I have been solo for the last 4,200, those first
months served me brilliantly well in terms of learning how to actually get
through hard country. IN the desert I usually take local guides - I have yet to
hear of a Western woman walking with camels alone for any length of time in the
Sahara - they do actually die, largely due to misunderstanding or simple,
avoidable accidents. Although I have walked certain stretched entirely alone, I
would not recommend this unless you had some kind of vehicular back up (which I
do not). It is traumatic, exhausting, and, I believe, very dangerous. Having
local languages helps, but if you are walking through notorious bandit areas
where there are up to 9 different dialects - as there are in Mali, for example -
it is a big ask to be fluent in all of them, and to have the kind of local
knowledge that could see you get through unscathed.
On the other hand, taking a local guide and learning local languages to at least
an elementary level, will ensure you have a safe, wonderful, experience, and see
nothing but kindness and hospitality. Africa and Africans, int he Sahel region
where I have walked (Western Sahara, Mauritania, Mali, Niger) are welcoming and
kind to strangers, particularly women.
If you are planning to walk in countries outside of the Sahara, then I have
little in the way of advice to offer - my experience has been confined to
walking amongst desert Bedouin with camels, so my walk with a pack was back in
Europe and Northern Morocco. I would never say "don't do it" - but I would
advise strongly to consider taking roads off the beaten track, stopping in
villages and offering a nominal fee to the local chief to give you a
guide/guard/companion to walk you to the next village. IN my experience this is
the safest and most interesting way to navigate Africa, although it will
inevitably involve endless marriage proposals, and some very tiring nights when
you are fed up with being asked the same questions and being the centre of
attention. However, to think of tackling the continent entirely solo is to my
mind, to give yourself serious problems. Africa is communal and lacking in
notions of personal space. You will not get it, so you are better off accepting
that and realising that your walk will be a communal thing. Embrace this, and
you embrace Africa; deny it, and you live in misery and resentment. If you want
a solo walk, do the Appalachian trail or something, because Africa is not the
place to seek solitude. Even in the Sahara!
My home phone number is (..............). From what you have written I rather
think you are serious, so if it would help to talk to me directly, I would be
more than happy to chuck my two bucks worth in. I don't pretend on any level to
be an expert, but I have learned a bit through trial and error, and may be able
to answer some questions. If you want to trace my route through Africa, these
are the major stops:
Morocco - Tangiers, Rabat, Casablanca, Marrakesh, Ouarzazate, Zagora, Mhamid el
Ghizlaine, Tan Tan, Laayoune, Boujdor, Dakhla
Mauritania: Nouadhibou, Atar, Tidjikjia, Aayoun el Atrouss, Nema
Mali: Tomboctou, Gao, Menaka
Niger Tillia (where I was stopped by civil war).
Cheers
Paula
